Gaspard Yurkievich Menswear Fall 2008: Silhouetted Chiaroscuro

PARIS, Jan 17, 2008 / FR / --- A strong upper half, a thinner lower half, the Renaissance inspired male silhouette by Gaspard Yurkievich for Fall 2008 is playing on shape contrasts, balancing creative interpretations based on the aesthetics of the quatrocento with reasonable wearability.

The general impression is that of a refined male figure, moving fast on long legs but happy to emphasize the face with a stronger shoulder line or a thicker scarf wrapped around the neck.

In these resolutely contemporary looks, the Renaissance impression comes from intricately designed pieces, playing with pleats and inlays, particularly on the torso.

One wonderful piece of knitwear exemplifies this research in an exceptional top embroidered in shades of tamed silver on the shoulders and neckline.

Black is predominant in the collection, but it would be wrong to think it dull or common for this reason. A slight spot of yellow inlay gives structure and volume to thin and tight sweat shirts. Faux blacks, slightly gleaming fabrics, perforated lacquered cotton enrich this delicate use of the non-colour, just like the dark tartans used in pants but also in some jacket, combining only a dark blue and dark green, revisit the ancient Scottish colours on today’s cuts.

Pants are slightly shorter than the norm, only to show better the often bright green socks and the season’s derbies and very low boots worn below turned up trousers.

The innovation comes with a new proposal for tailored suits in woollen gabardine: short jackets are paired with matching dungarees with biased side pockets on the top for a new allure.

Short collars on classic shirts of impeccable conception and tailoring add to the general atmosphere of classic wardrobe with a personality.

The research the designer did with Elvis Pompilo on hats is more hazardous… half cap half hat, the result looks more feminine and obsolete than in tone with the collection.

These irrelevant hats did not destroy however the feeling of intensity that pervaded the male figures in this show dressed in black to better play with the reflections of light.

The opening of Wagner’s “Sigfried” accompanied with authority and a propos the revival of medieval patterns with the new romantic male city dweller in mind.