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Milano Moda Uomo: Jan 12 - 16, 2008

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Kenzo Menswear Fall 2008: From Hebrides to Hokkaido through Himalaya

Paris Menswear Fall 2008

Photos courtesy of Kenzo
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PARIS, Jan 26, 2008 / FR / --- The spectacular presentation for Kenzo was set on a circular revolving stage with models were striking the pose in front of oversize photographs of impressive mountain sceneries: four different settings for refined modern dandies who are not afraid to confront hard weather conditions with style.

The first one was obviously set in the Scottish Highlands, and the sight in the background was so breathtaking that you could nearly smell the damp subtle purity of heather on the hilltop. On their way to the glens, the British-fascinated Kenzo men could sport a hunting jacket with a fur trim, while degradé mohairs, just like the injection of indigo here and there in some pieces gave a modern twist to a classic ensemble of grey flannel and dark navy worsted wool.

The second panorama took us to a lake on the Himalaya, obviously calling for sport fishing. The sense of high-performance and functionality is stressed on pieces of water-repellent nylon or waxed fabrics used on multi-pocketed coats for instance. Whimsical and colourful prints on shirts and linings on the inside are used in a contrast with the hand-painted patterns in black ink on the outside.

The Victorian dandy is revisited in the third tableau with a n exotic twist. A satin stitch on the lapel decorates black or chocolate brown dinner jackets and matching pants. Orchid green and plum purple give another identity to faux bowties in grosgrain. Velvet in some jackets adds a sense of discreet luxury.

However the finale of this splendid voyage was displaying the most wonderful pieces. As if on a battlefield inspired by elements derived from the spirit of British military regalia, the essence of the finery of a Samurai’s armour is captured on soft fabrics of brown embroidered in tarnished gold. The effect is striking: although clearly stating its Japanese warrior inspiration, the look is resolutely adapted to the 21st century man looking at the future.

Refined, precious, elegant, the collection by Kenzo for men for Fall-Winter 2008-2009 allies technicality and sophistication and provides beautiful pieces to wear on any occasion in the city or in the countryside. They should allow their wearers to outlive with style both the worst weather conditions of their outdoor adventures and pass the test of their evening social occasions with much success.


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